Alan Crocetti the London based jeweller talks boys and pearls

Alan Crocetti the London-based jeweller has pushed the boundaries of male adornment since debuting his first collection at Bobby Abley’s s/s 2014 show. Expertly crafted using precious materials and milky pearls to form sinuous earpieces and rings, Crocetti’s designs proved to be one of the season’s highlights. Following this early success, he was invited to present during London Collections: Men as part of Fashion East. The non-profit initiative that can count Kim Jones and Craig Green among its recent menswear alumni.

Alan Crocetti

Alan Crocetti and Fight Club

Past Alan Crocetti collections have found inspiration in films such as David Fincher’s Fight Club (1999). The jeweller combined themes from the movie with the skill of skateboarders to their craft. Adolescent models were dressed in opaque black smocks and knee-high socks perched on metal poles flaunting their Crocetti silver bandages. While knuckle dusters echoed the protective tape that boxers carefully apply before entering the ring, however these ones were hallmarked.

Later collections chimed a more tranquil tune. Identical rings in the shape of the letter C are worn doubled, revealing hidden peridot and garnet stones. The narrow bands of understated ‘Snap’ rings, their design calling to mind seatbelts, delicately encircle fingers. The collection’s concept, an exploration of freedom versus control and coming of age, finds translation in rings festooned with buckle and O-ring inspired fastenings. Both are necessary details for cool teens and bondage gear. This theme also extended to the presentation’s set and staging which featured heavy ropes and overturned furniture. For a recent exclusive collection at Dover Street Market, Crocetti created a trio of sterling silver rings in the shape of bullets. The former Central Saint Martins student prefers to work with silver or gold. “I still haven’t managed to work with anything less amazing, because I’m really into quality and durability,” he says.

Alan Crocetti jewellery
Alan Crocetti jewellery

 

In Conversation With Alan Crocetti

SomethingAboutORIGINS…

Alan Crocetti : “I was born in Goiânia, the Brazilian equivalent of Texas. There are rodeos and country music everywhere. I moved to Belo Horizonte when I was young, and I always say that’s where I’m from. Both places have had a big influence on my life. Goiânia brings me down to earth and makes me appreciate the simplicity of things. Belo Horizonte is cosmopolitan, but surrounded by so much richness. The Portuguese used to go to the city’s state, Minas Gerais, for stone and gold mining, and it’s ridiculously rich in baroque architecture.”

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SomethingAboutMEMORIES…

Alan Crocetti : “Jewellery that holds particular memories for me includes the pearl earpiece from my first collection. That’s the piece that made everything kind of happen for me. And my grandfather’s ruby ring, which is my first-ever memory of male jewellery.’

SomethingAboutMENINPEARLS…

Alan Crocetti : “The time for men to wear pearls is already overdue. Something so pure, beautiful and strong shouldn’t be categorised by gender. I don’t think of ways to make pearl jewellery more ‘masculine’. The idea is to make new, interesting designs that will make a man or a woman fall in love. It’s about beauty and desire. Women buy the ‘masculine’ aesthetic, and I want to push men to show their sensitive side. Men are not as strong or as simple as they’ve been portrayed.”

WORDS: Felix Bischof

ILLUSTRATION: Kelly Beeman

Alan Crocetti jewellery