Craig Green AW17 Show LCM London

Craig Green AW17
Craig Green AW17

Craig Green AW17

Craig Green AW17. This much anticipated collection closed the first day of London Fashion Week AW17. As rain began to pour outside the Old Selfridges Hotel magically on cue. The London born and raised designer presented a collection in part inspired by deep sea exploration. “Suited and tethered to one another, a procession of anonymous travellers emerges”. So read the collection notes.

Tone-on-tone and at sea

“Pulling hard against the limits of their bindings, their movements are connected, yet simultaneously singular”, the collection notes introduced Craig Green’s troop of explorers. The opening look set the tone for Craig Green’s seafaring uniforms. His take on waterproof dressing was a billowing blue zipped raincoat. Worn with a matching, wide-brimmed hat and accessorised with a toolkit like bag, the outfit also introduced one of the winning colour schemes of Craig Green AW17. One tone, worn from wide leg trouser to tied hood. In addition to all blue, there were dusty beige macs, trousers and ribbon-tied jackets. (All replete with hoods, wide brimmed hats and engulfing collars). Glossy quilted black leather reminded of hardwearing oilskins donned at high sea.

In a nod to nautical uniforms and life at sea, thick woollen coats featured knotted belts made of thick ropes. A lieutenant’s handy patch pockets also topped quilted cotton jackets. The Central Saint Martins MA Fashion trained designer has long been an expert at fabric innovation and manipulation. Craig Green AW17 includes coats and jackets made of spliced and collaged patches of woven textiles. Their floral print reminded of Mediterranean tiles and precious Oriental carpets. Perhaps a seafarer’s bounty?

Craig Green established his label in 2012. This was shortly after graduating the Fashion Masters course at Central Saint Martins. Green’s collections marry the twin concepts of uniform and utility. Green’s collections have received critical acclaim since his first show AW13. He’s become known for several signature pieces which recur in each of his collections. In particular is the worker jacket which appears again and again.

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Uniform and utility appear again and again in Green’s vision. And for this he has been a much-lauded fixture of London Fashion Week Men’s since Autumn/Winter 2013. Although well known for his sense of mood, each show is firmly rooted in the steady development of simple signature garments. The clearest example of this is the worker jacket, which has appeared frequently since the brand’s debut. His work has led to critical acclaim and accolades such as Emerging Menswear Designer at The British Fashion Awards 2014. As well as the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund prize 2016 and British Menswear Designer at The Fashion Awards 2016.

Craig Green AW17

Craig Green AW17

Craig Green AW17

Craig Green AW17

Craig Green AW17

Craig Green AW17