Dior without Raf Simons

Many are lamenting the departure of Raf Simons from Dior, but the Couture 2016 show in Paris was very much a collection that extended the aesthetic of the designer – giving couture back to the woman on the move (so to speak) or rather the Parisienne of today, translated through fluid silhouettes and miss matched separates and shorter A line skirts. Couture details were overshadowed somewhat by the bare shoulder cuts of the tops and  dresses, but they were there alright, in the intricate embroidery of the Lily of the Valley flowers (Mr Dior’s favourite – here made to look like leopard print) and especially on the lace panelled cocktail dresses and chiffon floor length gowns. The loudest celebration of the savour faire of the Dior artisans came as a literal one at the end of the show when studio directors Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier were joined by five more members of the design team who took their applause. The experimental and daring spirit of Simons may have been absent, but the imprint of his tenure at the Parisian house is still very much at surface level.  

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