Jacquemus AW17 Paris Show

Jacquemus AW17 Paris Show:

Jacquemus Paris AW17 show

You may remember the old Jacquemus. He who played with Surrealism (remember those painted faces and trompe l’oeil designs of AW15?!), puffy sleeves and the old-time romance of the South of France. Naïve and mischievous is the best way to describe his early designs. Some of that is still around – but anything farfelu (wacky in English) has been replaced with a grown-up playfulness. The idealism is thankfully still there too. For the Jacquemus AW17 Paris Show, Simone Porte Jacquemus was inspired by Provence and the crafts and traditions of this part of his native France where he was born. This time, the title of his AW17 Paris show L’Amour D’un Gitan hinted at similar romantic inclinations. But there wasn’t a gypsy dress in sight. In fact, there wasn’t a tassel or any floral embroidery either. So who was this gypsy in question?  If anything, his models appeared more like Picasso muses with their lopsided hats, sculptural dresses, voluminous/shoulder-enhanced jackets. Abstract rather than Surrealist if you prefer to dismantle this collection in terms of an artistic movement. There was indeed a subtle 1950s feeling to silhouettes, but that still leaves us without a gypsy. Instead of a literal representation of his imagined muse – something of a trademark for Jacquemus in the past – this collection was more concerned with a conceptual ideal, that of a free-spirited woman who dresses with confidence and elegance par amour. Not a gypsy in the tired stereotypical sense then, but a modern slant on the bohemian esprit libre nonetheless.

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Jacquemus Paris AW17 show Jacquemus Paris AW17 show Jacquemus Paris AW17 show