The Most Memorable LCM Collections

Spring/Summer 15 marked Craig Green’s first solo show outside of the MAN showcase, (having previously dipped his toe into the Fashion East Installations) and came just weeks after receiving his MA in fashion design from Central Saint Martins. Graduating the same year LCM began, Green used his slot during the MAN shows to win the undivided attention of the industry, whilst attracting a swathe of mocking press coverage from everyone’s favourite online pastime. However, as he sent out a flurry of barefooted men in his complex, eerie designs, celebrated for their emotive beauty, he too managed to get his audience to shed tears. Yes, everyone was crying at the Craig Green show and after seeing how beautifully crafted the collection was (thanks to LUXURY) I would too!

Bobby Abley is one of the most polarising menswear designers in the capital. In fact, he reminds us of an early Henry Holland who too had a marmite effect in the beginning. But love it or hate it, he’s here to stay. Interning at Jeremy Scott, prepared Abley to explore his obsession with Disney in his eponymous line. One season he’s creating cosmic wonders in the decadent rooms of Pall Mall, and the next he’s taking Mickey through an aggressive, twisted fantasy. It was this Autumn/Winter 14 collection that got people talking…even Disney themselves, who supposedly disapproved of the silver mouth pieces, used to fix the model’s mouths open in a scream, while wearing Mickey Mouse ears or Maleficent hats created by Piers Atkinson. Menacing, ghostly and damn right unexpected, it is the strongest collection by the then MAN designer, who after much criticism returns to London after spending last season in New York.

Many, including us, hailed the James Long Spring/Summer 14 the best of the season. Upping the anti, Long showed a clean and focused collection, inspired by the one of the toughest cycling challenges, Helltrack. Reimagining the cyclist uniform, Longo crafted an abstract print in hypnotic colours from a collage of images. With sport as the inspiration, the body was the focus. Yet, his masterful fabric manipulation blew the minds of us lucky enough to witness the show. Satin, bonded leather looked as light as a feather, whilst embossed nylon could have been mistaken for quilting. The medley of materials and treatments were flawless, and later a retailers delight!

This year’s GQ/BFC Fashion Fund award winner, Patrick Grant, has been transforming Savile Row tailoring techniques for a younger customer, in the contemporary line E.Tautz. A season that particularly stands out is Autumn/Winter 13. The grey palette accented with zesty oranges and delicious plum, offered a refreshing alternative to the sombre tones that come with winter. Plus, Grant’s modernist take on the Scottish Fraser tartan saw it positioned in unexpected angles across outerwear and suiting. At the time, it was the tailor’s most forward thinking collection to date, fusing the classicism required to keep his traditional customer at bay and attract a new, younger client.

Sibling officially arrived to the London menswear circuit in 2008, and have since changed the way we see knitwear. The technically talented trio – Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery – looked towards 70s punk icons Richard Hell, Paula Yates and Jayne Country to inform their Autumn/Winter 13 offering, which took mohair to aggressive extremes. Highlights from the collection included their exaggerated winter accessories, where hats took inspiration from Rastafarians and oversized mittens, later adopted by Alexander Wang, took the mundane to new heights.