The Milan Menswear Shows: Part 2

One of the highlights of the shows and the defining moment that can spark a trend, is when Miuccia Prada stamps her own mark on the proceedings. This year was without a doubt the turn of the zip up jacket, a flashback to 1980s casual wear, which she rolled out in navy with flashes of orange stripes on the arms and coloured piping. The designer’s well-known love of the arts often motivates guests to look for hidden meanings in her clothes, and it’s fair to say that the innocence of boyhood was celebrated with retro prints of bunnies, rockets and racing cars on knitwear, silk shorts and on more grown-up womenswear. What it all means is a mystery, but certainly the iconographic ‘markers’ of childhood that traditionally delineate the genders were happily swapped between the sexes. In the audience were Prada’s favourite head boys, Jack O’Connell and Michael Shannon.



Another key trend was ‘top stitched’ tailoring: a single track adorning lapels and trousers on grey and anthracite suits. Jackets were mainly tight and single breasted, paired with wide trousers or extremely tight. Then there were the shorts: loose but riding high and alluding to boyhood uniforms once again.

Leather aviator-style jackets came in deep rich colours of forest green and burgundy, but if the men’s clothing was playful and soft, the women’s was sophisticated and sexy. Stand out pieces included the ‘patchwork’ strip skirts that combined all three iconographic prints: a Refresher tube of rockets, cars and bunnies.

Calvin Klein revisited monochrome with black outfits taking the lead as the show began, giving way gradually to a very 90s palette of caramels and creams. Denim also played a key role, but only in spirit via tan and olive coloured jackets (bomber and jean-style) until an oversize olive parka broke the run. From then on, the clock was reset to the 80s with stone-washed denim, and ‘trompe l’oeil’ denim sweats to match.









Moncler’s Thom Browne took a fresh look at sportswear, as four teams of models grouped around two rowing boats for a glimpse of collegial ‘changing room’ theatre. Introducing themselves in simple white and blue shorts, ‘teams’ of models proceeded to dress themselves by pulling outfits out of their duffle bags. The collection was kept simple and clean with four main colour palates: grey, pink and green, red, white and blue and lastly black and white. Rowing blazers dominated in bright deckchair stripes and combined with seersucker shorts and trousers – matching summer versions of Moncler’s signature padded jackets were thrown over the looks along with lightweight gilets. The designer added a little levity with floppy summer hats, which brought a cheeky touch of 80s Stone Roses to sunny Milan.









Had James Bond been Italian he would have chosen the Gommino shoe boat at the Tod’s presentation as his getaway vehicle. Yes, the Italian shoe and menswear label had a giant moccasin boat greet guests in the pool of the sumptuous Villa Necchi in Milan. The floating footwear set the seen for the idea of luxury lounging. A theme that the brand was keen to push through its collections of easy wear indigo suits and seductive denim-inspired casuals, perfect for the postmodern Fellini hero – he who owns a multitude of multi-coloured handmade Gomminos, but also an enviable collection of Tod’s trainers.

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India was the destination for Missoni’s collection, from the hillsides of the Himalayas to the plains of the Ganges. This was sunset and sunrise mixed with a cultural colour explosion of indigo, emerald and Jodphur blue offset by the warmth of amethyst, turmeric and marigold shades.

Missoni’s own take on the denim trend was a bespoke weaved version, which even fades with wear. The ‘Missoni Jean’ with red pocket detail, was a clever wink to the ‘founders’ of denim, Levi’s Strauss, only with a touch of Italian one-upmanship. Moving further south to Madras, fabrics were influenced by the textiles and cloths worn by indigenous fishermen, the result:  a perfect balance between Eastern esotericism and western functionality.


Daks revisited the 1930’s with a Deco-inspired take on athletic wear. High-waisted tennis trousers with a double pleat were mixed with updated rowing and cricket sweaters. Whilst the gymnastic hoops hanging from the ceiling gave the impression that the models were about to leap up at any given moment, the clothing was more formal than functional.