Versace AW17 Does The Female Power March

Versace AW17 Does The Female Power March

Versace AW17 Milan Fashion Week

For Versace AW17, Donatella Versace is fighting the feminist cause. Following the same discourse as the one she began in W Magazine’s special women’s issue this February (“I have to succeed in showing women that we can do more, that we are stronger than men.”) the creative director introduced her Fall 2017 collection as “a call for unity” designed for “women who know how to use their power.”

For Versace AW17 this meant spelling it out at times with words like LOYALTY in caps running down a sculpted woolen dress or POWER on a yellow beanie. Versace is anything but subtle with its messages, we know this by now, so shout-outs such as these were to be expected, compounded by a voice-over repeating the word ‘equality’. The real accomplishment, especially given the lofty ambitions printed on the show notes (cocktail dresses “kept their dynamic form as if frozen in motion” apparently) was the collaging of dress codes which seemed to push towards a younger and sportier aesthetic, cooler and edgier by nature than recent collections.

Layered day-time looks played with neon in a big way: on the edges and collars of weighty shearling jackets, on baggy geometric print knits, on puffer jackets and on piping and linings everywhere thanks to flashes and floods of acid yellow and traffic cone orange. If the dresses weren’t body hugging and slit at the thigh, they were see-through (or indeed all three at the same time), though not provocatively so. Many looks played with loud clashing patterns such as tulle dresses embroidered with acid floral patches. There were more classic, finely tailored pieces but not many – Donatella was in little mood to compromise this season it seems. Indeed, she spiked even these more muted looks with a ‘don’t mess with me’ attitude thanks to boxy shoulders on suiting and mid-riff revealing separates, some with hoodies.

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Clothes can be empowering as we all know and this collection was certainly a statement about the kind of sexiness that seems relevant to today’s young luxury female buyer – bold, colourful and revealing but conversely less prescriptively ‘sexy’ and suggestive than before. This wasn’t a battle cry of a collection even though Donatella may have wished otherwise. It was more of a song of praise for a new directive at the Italian fashion house. And a commercially astute one at that.

Versace AW17 Milan Fashion Week Versace AW17 Milan Fashion Week Versace AW17 Versace 2017 Female Power March na